What comes first the walls or the floor?

Platinum Flooring Company

Nothing says “fresh start” like an empty house. As soon as you set foot in it for the first time, your mind floods with pictures of what your future home is going to look like, the family pictures go here, the dinner table goes over there and when Christmas comes around, this spot looks like a good place for the tree. But inevitably you are brought back to the ground by a singular conundrum. What comes first the walls or the floor? This chicken and egg situation is often thrown at new home owners and it leaves them completely baffled. While there is no wrong or right while designing a house, it is important to understand what each of these choices entails.

Homeowner’s first instinct is to get the wall painting done first because they simply cannot bear the thought of a stray spot of paint finding its way onto the newly refinished floor. While we heartily share the sentiment, there are a few reasons as to why it is more advisable to do the floor refinishing before the walls are painted. First, let’s go over a few reasons why it would be a bad idea to paint the walls before refinishing the floors.

  1. Flooring and sanding go hand in hand and it often leaves the air floating with dust particles. Leaving a film of dust on your fresh paint job would be disastrous to say the least.
  2. The possibility of the sanding machine nicking the baseboard along the walls cannot be avoided.
  3. If the walls are painted first and the hardwood floor is refinished, it is possible that the heights of the planks might not match. This would leave a thin strip of the wall unpainted.

Painting contractors are often required to do extensive masking to protect surfaces. Given this fact, a competent painting contractor should have no trouble saving your floor from undesirable spills, splotches or any other form of damage to your floors. It is also worthwhile to stress the aesthetic side of things. Whether you choose a dark palette or a light one, it has a great impact on how you perceive the space. With the flooring in place, it is far easier to get a good idea of what the walls should look like and how the furniture is going to look in the space.

While there is a possibility of damage in both cases, many contractors prefer to do things in the sequence we have just outlined. That said there are also contractors who like to do things differently and do an equally good job of it. There’s nothing a conversation with your contractor can’t solve. For professional guidance and assistance call us today on (888)869-0663 or visit http://store.platinumflooringcompany.com

Guide to hardwood floors Part II

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So, you’ve finally made a move on your dream of getting a hardwood floor installed in your house. This is the second of a two-part post. In the first installment we talked you through the process of identifying your subfloor, choosing good and suitable hardwood planks and last of all, choosing an installation technique that is right for you. We’ve covered a lot of ground, but we’re only half-way there, so keep your seat-belts on. You may read about the first part here: Guide to hardwood floors Part1

In this post you can find some valuable advice on the overall style of your flooring, helping you choose between the various colors, grains and textures. We also explain the Janka hardness rating that you might have heard mentioned a few times, what the defect rate is about and finally, the different grades of hardwood. Without further ado, let’s dive right in.


The various Hardwood species used in flooring are categorized into 2 distinct subcategories,

  1. Domestic hardwood wood i.e. wood species that are native to North America
  2. Exotic hardwood wood that is not native to North America

Each of the wood species, whether domestic or exotic, are characterized with their own definite set of colors and properties such as knots, grain structure, mineral streaks etc.

Domestic Hardwood species have been traditionally used in most of the homes in United States as hardwood flooring. Due to the cold climate in which they grow, the color of the Domestic Hardwood species falls on the lighter side ranging from beautiful creamy whites to light yellow, gray, light browns and pinkish reds. Unlike the Exotic hardwood species, the domestic does not turn color much with age and is found in the creamy colored ranges unless stained otherwise.

Here are some of our favorite Domestic Hardwood Species,

  1. Red Oak – Red Oak is one of the most popular species of domestic hardwood due to its beautiful warm reddish pink and light golden tone. It is known to have moderate to slightly heavy graining.
  1. White Oak – Harder than the Red Oak species, its natural color falls in the light golden brown to grey range and has light to moderate graining. The White Oak is also exceptionally stable and durable and has hence been used for decades to make wine barrels and boat floorings.
  1. Maple- Maple is found extensively in the northern parts of America and Canada and has a natural pale creamy white color. Maple is the clearest of domestic wood with few to no graining that mostly runs straight or slightly curly. It is known to posses the rare ‘bird-eye’ grain pattern that strike one as tiny eyes. This wood variety is also known to be extremely hard but unlike the White Oak, can be very messy to stain due to the presence of both hard and soft cell structures.

Hardwood such as Brazilian Cherry, Rosewood, Walnut etc are some of the more popular exotic hardwood species due to their rich, intense hue and dramatic grain textures. They are also valued for their remarkable hardness. A detailed study of the Exotic floors which also lists some of our favorite species can be found in the article Wood species to create contemporary flooring style for your home.

Janka Hardness rating

This is a method used to determine a wood species’s resistance to indentation and the relative hardness between wood species. Some person (probably in a lab coat) pushed a steel ball 0.444 inches in diameter, halfway through a block of wood and measured the force it took to do it. This force gives us the Janka rating of the block of wood. If a hardwood has a low Janka rating, expect it to be indented rather easily. If you expect your floor to take a punishment day-to-day, go for a higher Janka rating. Wood, being a natural product, is never completely resistant to indentation but a higher Janka rating certainly helps.

Defect rate

Depending on where the wood is sourced from, the defect rates can vary wildly. Wood with a very low defect rate is more expensive than wood with a higher defect rate. But if the defect rate is higher than 50% you might need to purchase more than double of what you intend to use and in the end, the math adds up. A high defect rate could also signal problems that might arise during installation, so the more you know, the better.

Hardwood grades

While all wood grades can be equally defect-free each of them can be strikingly different. The higher grades called the Clear and Select grades have relatively clean looks and keep knots, streaks, swirls and other feature variation to a minimum. These high grade boards may be used in fine furniture and cabinetry found in expensive households. On the other end of the spectrum are the lower grade boards which cost a lot less and are far more ubiquitous. They may be used in constructing crates, fences, scaffolding and other heavy duty applications. The Millwood and Cabin grades allow all of the features of the wood species such as knots or streaks and colour variations to show. They are often used in paneling and as a flooring option.

With this we hope all of your questions, or at least most of them, regarding hardwood flooring have been answered. For professional guidance and assistance call us today on (888)869-0663 or visit http://store.platinumflooringcompany.com.

Guide to Hardwood Floors – Part I

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Hardwood floors are back in vogue, and it’s no surprise. Its class and style is undeniable, as you can very well see. Your neighbor is showing off his new investment, a red Oak hardwood floor, freshly laid down. Back in your own home, your flooring feels drab and lackluster in comparison. Having tossed the idea around in your own mind, you feel tempted to jump right in and take that first step. But many feel baffled by the sheer number of options presented to them. Where do you even begin, you wonder? This is the first of a two-part post where we will examine the most important factors to take into consideration when deciding on a hardwood floor.

Identifying the moisture level and the kind of subfloor in your space

It is important to understand the moisture levels of the environment to choose the right kind of flooring. Hardwood reacts easily to moisture, making it contract and expand, causing gapping, cupping and crowning. In areas with high moisture levels, moisture and humidity controllers can be installed. Moisture barriers are also a worthy consideration depending on the environment in which you wish to set up the hardwood. Laying hardwood flooring is generally discouraged in bathrooms as the high moisture in this environment can wreak havoc on the wooden floor.

Hardwood flooring comes in a wide variety of builds to allow easy installation over any type of subfloor. The three main types of sub-floors are:

  • Concrete at ground level
  • Basement or concrete below ground level
  • Plywood subfloor at or above ground level

When your sub-floor type has been identified, you can proceed to choosing the type of hardwood board accordingly.

  • Engineered Hardwood flooring has been conceived to relieve the user of the shortcomings of natural hardwood flooring. This makes it easier to install over any kind of flooring and can withstand the problems of expansion and contraction from exposure to moisture. It is also harder and can prevents the formation of dents and abrasions unlike the softer wood varieties. Engineered hardwood boards are suitable in the following conditions.

Concrete at ground level

Basement or concrete below ground level

Plywood subfloor at or above ground level

  • 3/4-inch Solid Hardwood boards are one of the more commonly used board types. The biggest advantage of this plank is that it can be sanded down and stained many times over, adding great value to the house. For a more detailed explanation on this topic refer to the following link. Because the 3/4th hardwood plank is greatly susceptible to soaking in moisture, it is only suitable in the following situation:

Plywood subfloor at or above ground level.

  • 5/16 inch Solid Hardwood boards, just like the 3/4th inch boards, cannot be installed below ground level or basement due to the moisture problem. But its narrow width makes it very installation-friendly and can even be glued down using urethane adhesives. This plank is suitable in the following conditions:

Plywood subfloor above ground level

Concrete subfloor above ground level

  • Locking Hardwood is a favorite among the DIY community as it is the most installation-friendly of all the hardwood plank varieties. It requires no glue, nails or staples and can just be rolled down and locked into place. This is again a variety of engineered hardwood and hence it shares similar properties. It is suitable in case of the following:

Concrete at ground level

Basement or concrete below ground level

Plywood subfloor at or above ground level

Hardwood Installation techniques

One of the most crucial steps after purchasing the hardwood planks for your hardwood flooring is its installation. If done well, the hardwood flooring can last for years and give you no trouble at all but even the slightest overlook in the installation process such as an uneven glue layer can cause squeaking and gaps. Scarcity of fasteners too can cause unevenness in the bonding of the flooring to the subfloor and therefore not hold it down in place. Here is a detailed post about all the care that needs to be taken while installing the hardwood flooring and the options of techniques available – Read more about Hardwood Installation techniques here.

A detailed conversation with a professional would take you a long way when it comes to deciding on an installation technique that is suitable for your setup and budget.

To recap, in this post we have covered ground on identifying your subfloor and choosing an appropriate type of hardwood board. We have also discussed how to choose a suitable installation technique, fine-tuned to your requirements. Stay tuned for the second part of this post where we will look at a few other factors to take into consideration when constructing the hardwood floor you dream of. For more professional guidance visit http://store.platinumflooringcompany.com or give us a call at (888)869-0663.

Refinishing Hardwood Floors

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The tides of style ebb and flow and with that tide, hardwood floors have made a major comeback. In keeping with the times, people all over the country are stripping away the vinyl to reveal the classic hardwood floors underneath. You could be eyeing your worn out vinyl as we speak. All the walking, running, spilled food and drinks over the years take their toll. Though hardwood floors are one of the most gorgeous and durable flooring option, they too need a facelift once in a while. Of course, having spent a bucketful of cash on getting it installed, putting even a few bucks more might seem to pinch your wallet. But, beware of all the red flags before shifting into the DIY protective gear. For starters, it takes a lot of patience and time. Here’s everything you need to keep in mind while refinishing your flooring.

There are two possible routes to choose from. You might need to only rebuff the flooring or sand and finish the flooring.


Rebuffing the floor tends to be a cheaper option compared to sanding. It also takes lesser time.

  1. The protective coat on the floor gets scratched and bruised over the years while the wood underneath remains good as new. In this process called screening, a professional restores the integrity of the top layer using a buffing tool and successively fine grits. In order to buff your floor, you will need to rent a buffer and your preferred top coating, be it polyurethane or a penetrating sealant.
  2. If the floor has been regularly cleaned with oil based soaps, you will need to first rid the floor of any soap residue before you can continue. You can do so using Ammonia or an industry grade cleaning product. Once the residue is removed, the floor is rebuffed and sanded with fine grits of sand paper, a fresh layer of protective finish puts the cherry on the cake.

Sanding and refinishing

The contractor hired to sand and refinish your floor will completely strip away the top layer to reveal the naked wood and then finish it in accordance with your preference. In order to do this yourself, first, roll up your sleeves.

  1. You will need to rent a walk-behind floor sander and a hand held edge sander so you can get at those difficult corners successfully. This process tends to kick up a lot of dust into the air so make sure you have protective goggles on, a respirator or a face mask and some ear protection. Also seal the doors and windows with plastic sheeting secured using painters tape.
  2. Be sure to not let the sander linger lest it gouge out the floor. Start out with a 20 grit sand paper and then move into finer sand papers. Three layers of sanding are recommended by most professionals. While you nudge the sander along, make sure it moves along the direction of the board to maintain evenness. When the easy to reach portions of the room have been sanded bring out the edge sander and finish the job along the perimeter. Move the edge sander in arcs or a semicircular motion to avoid over-sanding.
  3. Check the floor to see if you can find any areas that might have been missed. Hand sand them away if you come across any of them. If you happen to find any gashes or gouges in the wood, grab a broad knife and some wood putty and fill in those spots; lightly hand sand these spots so they don’t stand out.
  4. Use a good vacuum cleaner to clean up the dust that remains, followed by a thorough wipe down using a wet cloth. After a while, vacuum again to pick up any dust that might have been missed. You will need to be meticulous about this because leftover dust landing on the drying finish is the last thing you want.
  5. Apply the final finish on the same day as the sanding is finished. In doing so, the moisture absorbed by the floor is kept to a minimum. The top layer comes in three different options depending on the look and durability you prefer.

Water based top coats are environment friendly and almost odorless but not as tenacious as the other two options. Spot repairing this coat is fairly easy.

Polyurethane coats is the industry standard and highly recommended for heavily used spaces and kitchens. Spot repairing this finish very tricky.

Acid cured coat is the strongest and most durable of the three options. It also have a very quick drying time and hence almost two coats can be done in one day. The odor from some brands is so strong that it may require you to temporarily move out of the house until completely dry.

  1. You could choose to leave the wood in its natural color or top it off by staining it, but keep in mind that staining prolongs the process by a day or two. Staining the hardwood floor follows the same process as finishing it.

We recommend that you wait at least 24 hours after the final coat before moving furniture back into the room. The hardwood floor is a hefty investment, enough to give anyone pause. While the professional makes refinishing a floor easy and it is possible to refinish the flooring yourself, experience counts for a lot in this business. Mistakes on a hardwood floor tend to show prominently, so doing it yourself comes at the risk of devaluing your flooring. You can read more here: Flooring Mistake Homeowners must avoid

At the Platinum Flooring Company, Hayward, CA, we pride ourselves on our experience and quality of service. For professional guidance refinishing your hardwood flooring, give us a call on (888)869-0663 or visit our website platinumflooringcompany.com.

Exotic Hardwood flooring

Platinum Flooring Company

Hardwood flooring comes as a major investment for home décor and one decision you are inevitably faced with is the choice between domestic and exotic wood. Any wood that is not native to North America is considered exotic. Exotic hardwood floors are renowned for their intense color and rich grain texture, not to mention their superior hardness. Here are three of our favorite options from the exotic section of our catalogue.

  1. Sapele – A Sapele hardwood floor is as elegant as the Sapele tree is tall. The Sapele hardwood is often referred to as African Mahogany and indeed often substituted for Mahogany. The sapwood is a pallid yellow in stark contrast to the ruddy brown of the heartwood. The grains of this tall tree are either straight or interlocked giving it stunning patterns depending on how it is sawn. For example, a quarter sawn board’s interlocking grains align giving rise to striking ribbon striping. Sapele only gets more popular as more people become aware of it and it is difficult to go wrong with this choice.
  2. Walnut – Walnut wood is characterised by its deep nutty brown hue which goes best with complimenting lighter coloured home décor. When done right it can have a very sophisticated air about it and it lends that sophistication to any room it graces. It used to exclusively belong in classical interiors, the stuff of aristocrats, but thanks to contemporary fashion it has been making a mark everywhere. Be it an old French library or a chic new jazz restaurant, this has become the go to flooring option. But tread with caution, because when it comes to hardwood, walnut lies on the softer side.
  3. Brazilian Cherry – The Brazilian cherry is an enchanting exotic hardwood that hosts a fantastic range of colors – a rich orange to a deep reddish brown hue, mixing together like galaxies in grains that run straight or form beautiful floral swirls. The Brazilian Cherry is extremely hard, almost 80% harder than the red oak which makes it highly durable, a universally coveted quality among flooring options. This wood is also an eco-friendly option when harvested sustainably. Like good wine, Brazilian Cherry hardwood only gets better with age, making it ideal for clients looking into a long term investment.

Why is White Oak Hardwood flooring beautiful?

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While remodeling the house, people often have a certain mood in mind that they want their house to reflect. Looking through stacks and stacks of narrow boards has not helped. It all feels a bit too formal; it’s just not what you had in mind. If that’s the case it might be a good idea to consider a wide plank flooring option, specifically the wide plank White Oak. People often hesitate to even consider the wide plank variety. While there are a few legitimate concerns, we submit to you that the wide plank White Oak is misunderstood, if we may, widely.

Wide plank refers to boards that are wider than five inches. Among the ranks of the wide plank boards is the White Oak variety. The White Oak hardwood is a gorgeous wood variety which comes from trees that grow in colder climates which impart a lighter color to the wood. The wood has some unique whitish, yellowish and sometimes even greenish undertones that are starkly different from the usual darker brown, red and deep cherry of its oak cousins.

Wide plank flooring however, comes with some amazing advantages of its own.

  1. Wide plank flooring is available in exotic wood options because of its more intense colour and grain giving your house a rich character.
  2. While narrow boards are sawed with the intention of avoiding knots, this is not the case with wide boards. The knots add to the rustic and natural feel of the boards.
  3. Wider planks result in fewer seams making the flooring extensive and allows the room to look a lot more spacious. Fewer seams in the flooring also impart a calmer feel to the space.
  4. Wide plank flooring has the option of using restored and reclaimed wood. Therefore it is a great option for people looking for greener and environment friendly options.
  5. Wide planks and longer boards make installation quicker and much simpler.

It must be said however that wide planks are often more susceptible to the effects of humidity and dryness. It can either cup or crown or shrink, revealing gaps in between. While there are things you can do to minimize these effects, more often than not, people who install these floors are people who prioritize character over perfection. To that end there is no equal to the wide plank’s rustic appearance and irresistible charm. In fact any cupping or gaps that might occur only add to the character of the flooring. Here are a couple of other points to keep in mind before installing the wide plank flooring.

  1. In extremely dry or humid environments cupping, crowning and gaps can be significantly reduced by installing temperature and humidity control in these spaces.
  2. Since the cost of flooring planks is usually calculated in proportion to the width of the plank, wide plank flooring can turn out to be more expensive than a narrow board.

White Oak hardwood is gaining more and more popularity among the modern designers because of its unique look. This wood variety apart from being extremely durable offers some exotic nutty brown hues with soft and intricate swirls in it’s grain. These advantages and the sheer exclusivity of wide plank flooring makes the White Oak hardwood flooring one of our favourite flooring options. For professional guidance and advice for the use of White Oak Hardwood flooring in your house, call us on (888)869-0663 or visit our website www.platinumflooringcompany.com

Your flooring as a blank canvas

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An artist spends hours preparing his canvas; a fashion enthusiast goes through dozens of spools of cloth before choosing the right one. Choosing the perfect base for your artwork is as important as anything you add to it. People who regard their homes as works of art, spend hefty sums of money on décor and yet far too many of them tend to get off on the wrong foot with a common mistake. What is this mistake you ask? In keeping with our first analogy, they often mistake the floor décor to be paint rather than a canvas that begs to be painted upon with myriad shades of furniture and tapestry. Everything between the ceiling and the floor need to sing the same song to the same tune, and blend seamlessly with each other and create just the right mood.

People often treat flooring like any other accessory when in fact it decides the aesthetic of everything that comes after it. It can make or break the look of your house. Your deep stained hardwood flooring will not go with the wrought iron furniture you bought and a stone tile flooring will most definitely look mismatched with the minimalist monochrome sofa. Moreover, as soon as the flooring is laid down, it inevitably becomes a defining character of the space that cannot be altered easily. While it is cumbersome to replace all of the furniture in the house, replacing the flooring is much more so. This makes your decision to invest a wooden floor décor that much more difficult but also, that much more rewarding.

We, at the Platinum Flooring Company, Hayward, CA, have a plethora of floor décor options to offer and can provide you with professional guidance with creating the house you dream of. Give us a call on (888)869-0663 or visit our website platinumflooringcompany.com

How long does laminate flooring last?

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In your search for a good laminate floor, you come across yet another retail genie, waving laminate samples in your face, telling you all the things you want to hear. With this laminate, your expensive sofa doesn’t need to look like a thrift shop steal, placed as it is over your crummy tile floor or shabby carpet! No longer! With this new flooring your house will put a king’s bedroom to shame. What’s more, it will last an eternity and then some! This kind of hot air is usually easy to recognize but not always. It is a struggle to find a good laminate floor solution tailored to your needs and within your budget, and all of the fluff marketing and false advertising are not doing you any favors. So how long do laminate floors actually last? How many years of everyday wear and tear can it take before its age begins to show?

Over the years, we have installed laminate flooring for many customers, but their lifespan has varied widely. Like anything else, the longevity of the flooring depends on various factors.

  1. Quality

Laminate flooring comes in a wide range of pricing; some of the premium ranges even have a manufacturer warranty of 50 years. This more than recovers the cost and adds value to it like no other. Some of the cheaper options available in the market often end up being a compromise not only on their look, but worse, their lifespan. These might come with various manufacturing defects some of which only reveal themselves with time. Be careful to purchase your flooring from a trusted retailer. A good warranty is a must. The longer a warranty lasts, the greater the trust a retailer places in his product.

  1. Installation

Laminate flooring falls under the category of floating tiles and it can be easily installed by just using the how-to guide that comes along with the purchase. However, if your professional skills are lacking, subtle mistakes can reduce the longevity of your flooring significantly and even risk voiding your manufacturer’s warranty.

Proper care must be taken while installing the flooring, especially in rooms like the kitchen and the bathroom where high levels of moisture are to be expected.

  1. Care and Maintenance

Very often, simple care taken on a daily basis goes a longer way than heavy maintenance work done after years of recklessness. Simple things such as using a mild detergent and avoiding the excess use water help a great deal. Even a severely damaged plank can be replaced with professional care instead of uprooting and replacing the entire floor.

Laminate flooring may not last as long as a natural hardwood floor or stone tiles but it is a lot less expensive while retaining the look and feel of luxury. This makes it an ideal option for many home owners. We at the Platinum Flooring Company, Hayward, CA pride ourselves in offering you the best options for flooring. For professional guidance on laminate flooring or flooring in general, give us a call on (888)869-0663 or visit our website platinumflooringcompany.com.

Remodel & Renovate: Hardwood flooring versus Concrete Flooring

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Thinking of remodelling your house? Are you confused between keeping the concrete flooring your house came with and the gorgeous hardwood flooring you saw in the latest issue of Architectural Digest? When it comes to a match up between concrete and hardwood flooring, we think the hardwood comes out on top. Here are a few reasons why we think it is the better investment and the right choice for you.

  1. Wooden flooring has the advantage of being a good heat conductor. It absorbs, circulates and stores heat thus keeping your house naturally warm. It will save you a fortune on the thermostat and is one of the best options for houses in cold climes. Wooden houses radiate warmth and maintain a welcoming temperature. Concrete floors on the other hand tend to become ice cold and can be a torture to set foot on in the middle of the night to fetch yourself a glass of water.
  1. A concrete floor is hard and unforgiving. Ask anyone who has had to take care of toddlers who constantly trip and fall all over themselves. A wooden floor on the other hand is a lot safer and a good choice which suits all ages groups.
  1. Wooden Flooring is to your house what an LBD is to your closet. Hardwood flooring is a timeless classic that never fails to impress. If you are investing in remodelling your house, hardwood flooring is definitely going to add grandeur and class to your home without much help from the furnishing. Read more about designing with hardwood flooring here.
  1. Concrete looks more suited to be the floor of warehouse or indeed, a storage room, garage or a workshop for all your rugged activity.
  1. An exquisite hardwood floored house can not only be a prized possession that can be passed down through generations, it also adds immense resale value to the product. Hardwood flooring if taken care of well, will never have to be replaced. Concrete floors in houses are unaesthetic and fail to please the eye. They can often be a deal breaker while you try to resell your house and drive the price down. Follow this link for a more detailed study.

While concrete flooring may seem like a good idea and light on your wallet in the short term, hardwood flooring pays for itself in the long run. For professional guidance on choosing the right flooring for your house call us on (888)869-0663 or visit our website www.platinumflooringcompany.com.

The Squeaking Floor

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Peter’s job had been gruelling over the last few months. He had been longing for some time off, as had his wife. And now here they were, having travelled all day, standing in front of their summer home. It was a house built in the 1940s that Peter had bought and remodelled to it’s existing splendour. The house as it stood, was enveloped in nature’s gentle embrace. It stood by a small lake overgrown with cattails. Peter took a lung-full of the fresh air of the country side as they made their way to the porch. To his surprise the floorboards welcomed him with a loud creak. He thought nothing of it but his peace of mind had diminished. But it didn’t stop there, every step he and his wife took brought a different sound from the floorboards. Creak, squeak, groan, crack – like some odd concerto. On closer inspection he slapped his forehead as he realised the hardwood flooring he had so painstakingly laid down, was coming loose!

He did a quick web search and called a few people. After a restless night, Peter called the Platinum Flooring Company located in Hayward, CA. On hearing Peter’s situation, they knew that he was experiencing the most common and notorious flooring problem. Squeaking has a number of causes but some of the most common ones can be very easily avoided with able professional help during the fitting of your flooring.

1. The flooring can start squeaking due to gaps created between the subfloor and the hardwood flooring or between the subfloor and the floor joists. Immense care needs to be taken to ensure that the floorboards are glued properly.

2. Squeaking could also occur if your sub-floor is installed in areas of dry air conditions such as main heat ducts. The dry air causes the sub-floor to shrink and to loosen it’s grasp on the fastener. This can occur even more, if the boards are exposed to moisture before installation which caused then to first expand and then contract when exposed to dry air.

3. Unevenness in the sub floor level can also cause the fastener to be stuck irregularly to the flooring and create gaps which in turn cause squeaking.

4. And lastly, a lack or shortage of fasteners during the installation of the flooring also causes squeaking. Hardwood boards go through an annual cycle of expansion and contraction and require adequate amount of fasteners to keep them in place. Thus, scarcity of fasteners frequently causes squeaking.

With Professional help and guidance from the Platinum Flooring Company, Peter knew that his house was in good hands. In case you are also struggling with any such problem, just call us today (888)869-0663. For more information and free professional guidance, visit us at www.platinumflooringcompany.com

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